November marks World Vegan Month and though the lifestyle isn’t a trend or holiday for those who practice, it’s an opportunity to recognize how far the plant-based diet has come. Just as restaurants have begun normalizing low-ABV and non-alcoholic spirits—expanding mocktail selections and even listing them first on menus under equally fun names as their boozy counterparts—we’ve seen chefs beginning to prioritize vegan alternatives.
With the rise of vegan options, however, comes the challenge of pairing these dishes with wine. The alternatives used in vegan cooking can create unusual flavors that don’t sync with traditional pairings, like swapping heavy cream for coconut cream, which brings in an entirely new flavor and texture to a dish. To further complicate things, “many fine wines are clarified using animal ingredients like egg whites–information that almost never appears on a label,” explains Benjamin Appleby, wine director at Tavistock Restaurant Collection, New England.
Though it may appear overwhelming, especially for those looking to switch to a vegan lifestyle, vegan wine pairings can be simplified. Below, six sommeliers share their expert tips on how to best pair vegan alternatives with wine.
Find your favorite vegan wines
As Appleby previously mentioned, invisible additives can appear in wine. He recommends searching Barnivore, a beer, wine and liquor guide dedicated to vegan-friendly adult beverages, to check your favorite brands or to peruse a wine menu in advance.
Fresh dishes require brightness or minerality
Benjamin Oram, advanced sommelier and beverage director at Bar Enza in Cambridge, MA, points out that fresh vegetable-based dishes, from salads to simple, grilled vegetables, need brightness or minerality to mirror their flavors. Though he recommends Sauvignon Blanc and Verdicchio as go-to white wine pairings for their clean citrus notes, he says, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is his favorite wine for these dishes because of its textural qualities. “The wine has great depth, but not heavily aromatic. This quality, along with the stony minerality allows for the vegetables to stand out as the star.”
Creamy dishes need slightly less acid
Vegan cream tends to have less fat, explains Josias Diaz, sommelier at Halifax in Hoboken, NJ. Thus, Diaz says, the wine should have less acidity. For a vegan, creamy mushroom risotto, Diaz suggests Gewurztraminer: “It has charming perfume, distinctive aromas and carries some sweetness and savory notes, along with sufficient acidity.”
Umami dishes need wines with texture
“Vegan foods will often lack the unctuous texture of animal fats, but umami focused dishes can be amazing with more process driven wines,” says Oram who says vegan umami dishes usually rely on mushrooms, tomatoes and seaweed. “Vin Jaune, Sherry, and Champagne are your best friends for playing with umami while adding additional mouth feel,” says Oram, adding that Vin Jaune and Sherry contribute richness, while Champagne bubbles are fizzy and cleansing so that you’ll want to take another bite.
Consider new flavors from fat alternatives
Since strong flavors can accompany vegan butter, oil or cream replacements, David Danforth, sommelier at Puritan & Company in Cambridge, MA, says he’ll pair high-toned, intensely white aromatic varietals from Alsace, France with coconut oil or coconut cream-based dishes. “Like Gewurztraminer or Muscat Blanc; these highly phenolic wines can stand up to the vibrant flavors of vegan cuisine,” says Danforth, adding, “Often the key is to try pairing more with the accents and spices rather than the primary components.”
Vegan cheese beckons a rich match
Doreen Winkler, natural wine sommelier and founder of Orange Glou in New York City, points to creamy, rich and aromatic wines as the perfect pairing with vegan cheese. “Ideally an aromatic grape like Muscat,” specifies Winkler. “Retour de Milan is an amazing Muscat from Domaine Fond Cypres in Languedoc; it is creamy and full of layers, mineral with notes of apricot, peach, and herbs.”
Don’t overcomplicate it
“In general, the same rules for pairing wines with meat or vegetarian fare apply to vegan dishes – what grows together goes well together,” advises Carlos Solorzano-Smith, sommelier and founder of Aspen Cellar Consulting. “A rustic pesto vegan pasta is perfectly complemented by a crisp Pinot Grigio. A vegan tomato soup or marinara pasta goes perfectly with a Super Tuscan or a Barolo. A butternut squash blossom tempura matches nicely with a sparkling wine or Prosecco. Or try sautéed salty mushrooms, tofu, and mashed potatoes with a Pinot Noir. Another classic, a vegan Mediterranean salad (no cheese) with olive oil, lemon, capers, and fresh onions, can be deliciously paired with a refreshing Chardonnay.”
When all else fails, there’s always Champagne
Champagne is inherently vegan, with the most popular maisons (think Moët Impérial Brut or Veuve Clicquot) on Barnivore’s approved vegan-friendly wine list. Plus, Appleby concludes, “There is very little food that doesn’t pair well with Champagne, so perhaps this is not such a difficult lifestyle choice after all!”